My cheesemonger career never rose to the giddy heights of being allowed to design the display. Partly this was because I didn't often volunteer to be on the opening shift (rising in time for a 7 am start was never going to be my forte), but more because I never really developed a 'cheese aesthetic' as senior cheesemongers demanded.
The new restaurant in Chelsea might have been designed to help me in this: L'Art du Fromage sounds like everything a fromageophile might long for. Cheese (French cheese) appears in every course, from the Munster panée (fried in breadcrumbs) hors d'oeuvres to the cheese ice-cream for pudding, via tartiflette and fondue.
It invites its potential diners, "with no pretension at all, to share a little of our history, of our culinary heritage, of our land". It's not clear whether the lack of pretension refers to the customers - "you are only welcome if you are unpretentious" or to the restaurateurs - in which case, I think they may need to work on their self-awareness.
My best friend in London, a fellow restaurant-lover, and I considered going there last week, but then each confesseed that the concept made us feel slightly too queasy. Later I read a truly appalling review - but I will not give up! Does anyone want to join me in an expedition to see how much cheese it is possible to consume at one sitting without passing out?